The large windows, the art deco ceiling and the soft murmur of conversation led me to the reflection that here is a hotel that, to be perfectly sincere, it is better not to stay at.
I was invited to speak therein, seated and bathed in a soft, red light that indicated the booth was in use. I pondered that coincidence when, in the middle of the same corridor as Nietzsche once walked along, I received a call and, upon answering out loud, a friendly hand took my arm while another pointed to a row of booths with a cellphone symbol on them. Kristen Stewart, Juliette Binoche, Chloë Grace Moretz and director Olivier Assayas at the 2014 Cannes premiere of 'Clouds Of Sils Maria.' Pascal Le Segretain (Getty Images) In 2003, when the cellphone was becoming a must-have item, the coin-operated telephones fell silent.īefore leaving Sils, and having composed the outline of his work Thus Spoke Zarathustra, Nietzsche was strolling one evening in 1881 by the nearby Lake Silvaplana, when he paused in front of an “enormous rock, erect like a pyramid.” Observing this, he came to the conclusion that everything in life is condemned to repeat itself endlessly, thus initiating his revealing theory of eternal return.
From those booths and writing desks the likes of Thomas Mann, Hermann Hesse, Luchino Visconti, Vivien Leigh, Elsa Morante, Joseph Beuys and David Bowie have communicated, among many others. It also had a dedicated room for writing postcards, where guests would line up to use one of the desks.
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It was the dawn of the age of communication, and the Waldhaus was one of the first hotels to install telephone booths. As soon as it was inaugurated in 1908, it gained a reputation that remains as intact as Nietzsche’s former quarters. Shortly after Nietzsche definitively abandoned Sils, and just a few meters from the house where he had lived (and which still preserves his bedroom intact), the Hotel Waldhaus was constructed. “Sils is really wonderful: availing myself of adventurous Latin, I would describe it as perla perlissima,” the philosopher once wrote to his friend Peter Gast. Moritz in the Swiss Alps that held him hopelessly. Toward the end of the 19th century, Friedrich Nietzsche took his thinking to another level and predicted the chaos of modernity: the desire for power, the weakness of truth, the death of God, the reversal of values… between 18 he spent many summers in Sils Maria, a picturesque location near St.
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